Glorious Granada
Local Excursions - Lake Nicaragua and the Islands 

Leaving the city limits, you can visit small Indian villages nestled along the bases of volcanoes, hike the slopes or travel by bus to the craters and lagoons, explore the islands of Lake Nicaragua and browse the local markets.
The Lake: Exploring the Islands
Alternatives for Landlubbers

Lago de Nicaragua 

This huge lake, and nearby Lake Managua, are believed to have been part of a large Pacific bay that was cut off from the ocean by massive volcanic eruptions. Sea creatures trapped in the lakes adapted to their new environment as the water gradually changed from salt to fresh, hence the strange aquatic species that call the lake home like the world's only freshwater sharks along with tarpon, freshwater swordfish and guapote.

The lake is the 10th largest freshwater lake in the world and the largest lake in Central America at 177km long, averaging 58km wide covering a total of 8157sq km and approximately 60m deep. It's so big that it took the Spanish 12 years to find an outlet to the ocean.

Of the 45 rivers flowing into the lake, the Rio San Juan forms a once important sea link between Granada on the lake's northern shore, the Caribbean and on to Europe. For centuries, this vital link encouraged the exploitation of the country by various European countries and assorted marauding pirates. Even today, the route is still studied as a possible trans-isthmus crossing to compete with the Panama Canal.

Of the 400 islands dotting the lake many are inhabited and several are large enough to support small villages and significant agricultural production. Las Isletas is a group of 300 small islands clustered just offshore from Granada. At one time during the 1800s, they were the focus of grandiose plans to create a Venice in Central America. It didn't happen and the islands are still home to abundant bird life and small subsistence farmers with occasional visits from wealthy mainland folk who have second homes there.

Further afield are the larger islands of Zapatera, Ometepe and Isla del Muerto, which were used burial grounds for the Indian tribes that once lived in the area. Artifacts found on the islands include large stone statues of birds, animals and people as well as petroglyphs carved with images of people, animals, birds and geometric designs. Most of these treasures have been removed to museums for protection.

Traveling around the islands offers a fascinating look at life on the water as fishermen wade chest deep dragging their nets, women row dugouts through the channels or wash clothes at the shore and children do what children do the world over, daring each other to take an even higher dive from the limbs of an overhanging tree.

It is best to take advantage of the knowledge of a local boat captain to do your water exploring since there reputedly are as many islands submerged as above the water making navigation an activity for experts only.

The largest of the lake islands is Ometepe with its distinctive silhouette formed by the two large volcanoes, Concepcion and Madera. Volcan Concepcion is still active, erupting most recently in 1983. Lava flowing between the two volcanoes formed an isthmus making the one single island.

Fishing, bananas, citrus fruits, sesame, wheat, tobacco and coffee are among the industries that support the residents of Ometepe. The Chorotega Indians left behind many reminders of their existence in the form of stone statues and petroglyphs. Though many have been removed, you can still see some of them in front of the church in Altagracia and on the slopes of Volcan Madera.

Ometepe is great for hiking and exploring, particularly the slopes of Volcan Concepcion for excellent views and rain forests. There are also several good hikes or horseback rides to see petroglyphs. Or you could just sit back and leave the transport to the bus driver as he circumnavigates the island on scheduled runs. This is a 3-4 hour trip and be warned, in this context, a "bus" is usually an open cattle truck packed to capacity and them some with no protection from the elements which will, with certainty, include torrential downpours or searing sun.

Most importantly, the boats arrive and depart on time but the buses are far more casual about scheduling. Unless you want to spend an unscheduled night away from home base, the best way to see the island is to hire one of several licensed drivers/guides that greet the incoming boats. They will stay with you and ensure you get back to the dock on time. This is a large island and it can take up to two hours just to get to the popular Santo Domingo beach.

We spent a day with a guide named Raphael who, after a giving us a good overview of the island and a delightful stop at Villa Pariaso for lunch, spread out under an arbor on the beach, had us back in time for the boat.

Exploring The Islands

OMETEPE

With the recent inauguration of a pair of Russian hydrofoils, the trip to Ometepe has been reduced from a stomach-churning three hours in a banana boat to a swift one hour each way. Check for scheduling since these boats have not been running every day.
The trip is comfortable with plenty of inside seating to escape spray and sun. Tickets may be arranged through your hotel or from the office next to the Hotel Granada. Cost is $10 round trip and reservations are a must.
Supply boats continue to ply the route hauling essential goods as well as passengers. These boats are loaded with local color. They are also slow and this trip will give you a new understanding of sea sickness. They are very cheap. Ask at the dock for departure times and current prices.
When you disembark on Ometepe, you'll see next to the dock a small stand selling water (essential!), a restaurant and a line up of several guide/taxis. Again, if you are planning on a single day visit to the island we recommend the extra expense of the taxis as opposed to the cheap, but erratic buses.

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